8
With the inside of the exhaust box now visible, the
exhaust valve cover plate (Ref. 169) with gasket (on RA
pumps only) can now be removed by loosening and
removing a hex head nut or a bolt in the center of the
cover plate.
If only the exhaust valves (Ref. 159) need to be taken
out or replaced, it will not be necessary to separate the
pumping module from the exhaust box.
To separate the pump cylinder (Ref. 1) from the exhaust
box (Ref. 75), remove the hex head cap screws (Ref.
186) with lockwashers (Ref. 187) from within the
exhaust box. On 0160/0250 models, there are internal
and external nuts and screws that have to be removed.
The exhaust box can now be separated from the pump
module. The gasket (Ref. 185) can be removed and
replaced, if necessary.
The exhaust valves can now be removed by loosening
the slotted machine screw with a large screwdriver (for
plastic valves) or with a 10mm socket wrench (for all
steel valves).
The sheet metal piece (Ref. 78), which is located
towards the bottom of the exhaust box, and the steel
dernister (Ref. 79), which is located towards the fill plug
inside the exhaust box, can now be removed for clean-
ing or replacement. The sheet metal piece will require
some bending to remove it.
The inlet housing (Ref. 260) can be removed from the
module by removing four hex head cap screws (Ref.
265). The inlet housing comes in two pieces. The inlet
screen should be cleaned or replaced. The anti-suck-
back valve (Ref. 251-255) needs to be looked at to
assure proper function. Check to see that the valve
plate (Ref. 251) moves freely and seats properly. The
spring (Ref. 254) should be adjusted so it holds the
valve plate slightly ajar. All O-rings and/or gaskets
should be replaced, if necessary, before reassembling.
To check exhaust filters (Ref. 120), it will be necessary
to remove the exhaust end cover plate (Ref. 140) by
removing either the hex head cap screws (Ref. 142) for
the 0160 model or the socket head cap screws (Ref.
142) for the 0400/0502/0630 models. The synthetic
baffle (Ref. 130) needs to be removed and replaced, if
necessary.
Remove filter springs (Ref. 125) by loosening pan head
machine screw (Ref. 126) with a screwdriver. Push the
filter spring with a large screwdriver from the frame so
that the spring assembly pops out. Slide the exhaust fil-
ters (Ref. 120) with O-rings (Ref. 121) out of the
exhaust box. Examine filter elements to see if they are
clogged. See Section 3.3 for details.
To replace the automotive type oil filter (Ref. 100), the
pump should have been running for at least 15 minutes,
so that the oil is warm. Then turn the pump off, remove
the oil drain plug (Ref. 95), and drain the oil. With an
automotive type filter wrench (strap wrench), remove
the oil filter, and replace with a new one. Coat face of
gasket on new filter with oil and hand tighten until gas-
ket contacts base, then tighten two-thirds turn more.
Do not overtighten. Use only a genuine Busch filter.
4.3 Disassembly of Pump Module
Set module on a table or vise with the exhaust port fac-
ing down and the inlet facing you (see Fig. 8 and 9).
Remove threaded taper pin (Ref. 60) by placing a
washer or lockwasher over thread and then a 6mm or
8mm nut against the washer/lockwasher to loosen the
taper pins. Use of a lockwasher acting as a spring will
ease removal. In essence, the washer/lockwasher is
used as a spacer and the 6mm or 8mm nut is used as
a jackscrew to draw the pin out.
Remove the hex head cap screws (Ref. 53)so the end-
plate may be separated from the pump cylinder. Be
careful not to damage the sealing faces, O-ring (Ref.
50) or paper gaskets between the endplates. If the end-
plates do not come off easily, tap gently with a rubber
mallet or soft hammer, or remove all threaded studs
(Ref. 4) from the cylinder. On older pumps with gaskets
between endplates and cylinder, take note how many,
and the thickness of the gaskets used on each side of
the cylinder. The same quantity and thickness can be
used upon assembly if no major parts were replaced or
machined.
The rotor (Ref. 15) and vanes (Ref. 22) can now be
removed from the cylinder (Ref. 1). Care must be taken
when removing the rotor to prevent damaging the rotor
or the cylinder.
Inspect vane slots for wear. The slot walls should be
parallel to each other. If the slots are worn in a V pat-
tern the rotor should be replaced. Insert a new vane in
the slot and measure the gap between the vane and the
slot wall. If the gap exceeds .3mm replace the rotor.
Check the rotor for trueness before reassembly. This
can be done by chucking the rotor in a lathe and check-
ing the run-out or eccentricity (T.I.R.). The maximum
allowable run-out is 0.02mm (0.001”). See the
Clearances Chart on page 21.
The bearings (Ref. 30) and shaft seals (Ref. 35) can be
removed from the endplates via an arbor press using a
bearing and shaft seal removal tool (see Fig. 2 and 3).
WARNING: Wear safety glasses when
removing or installing the exhaust filter
springs. Be prepared for the possibility of
the spring suddenly releasing if it is not in
the spring pocket correctly.